Nestled in an old cottage in Sydney’s Surry Hills is Loluk Bistro, a cute and cosy Southern French bistro. The restaurant is inspired by the owners Luc and Loic’s upbringing and the recipes of their mother. The food is very obviously French, with a list of classic bistro dishes that are inflected with northern Italian influences. It’s all very cute.
For Entrée, My guests and I ordered the Beef Carpaccio, and the Burratta Salad. The salad, while simple, was fresh and confident. It let the ingredients do all the talking. The Beef Carpaccio was thin, salty and flavoursome, the balsamic glaze that was drizzled on top cut through the cheese and meat, nicely rounding out the dish however the rocket garnishes seemed to get in the way of good presentation and a clean palate of flavours.
For main course, my guests ordered a Beef Tartare, the Eye Fillet with mushrooms and I ordered the Duck with Gnocchi. These three classically French bistro dishes were served in generous portions, and in a rustic, homely style.
The Duck, served perfectly pink, was well seasoned and well cooked; it sat on the plate of its own delicious jus. Despite how well the duck was cooked, the star of the dish was the gnocchi, the texture was perfect and they really lifted the dish to another level. It was homely, it was hearty and it was French, there wasn’t much more I could’ve asked for.
The Eye Fillet was cooked medium rare; left to rest on the plate it was served on with the jus of the beef and the sautéed mushrooms combining well with the potato gratin. There is a lot that can be said about a good jus that you can lap your meat in. Thinking about it makes the mouth water.
Finally, the Beef Tartare, which was richly sauced and seasoned, with the classic accompaniments hits all the right notes, served with fries and an aioli that is too good to resist, Loluk delivers on the classics that we have come to expect.
The real highlights of Loluk Bistro were the desserts. We were stuffed but managed to share the Profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and hot chocolate sauce, and the Lavender Crème Brulèe. Both of which were outstanding. The softness of the lavender flavour and the silkiness of the brulèe was some of the best I have had, it was surprising and left me scraping the bottom of the glass looking for more. That is not to say that the Brulèe overshadowed the Profiteroles, which had an amazingly crunchy choux pastry that forcefully held together the ice cream even after the waitress poured hot melted chocolate theatrically over the pastry.
Overall, Loluk Bistro delivers on its promises. It values the recipes and memories of their grandmother and of the south of France. I think it upholds the classic French way of cooking. I think that the home is meant to be a place filled with honesty and heartiness, rather than the refined. It’s more than cute; it’s good wholesome cooking.
Breakfast: Saturday – Sunday
2/411 Bourke St, Surry Hills NSW 2010, Australia
+61 2 7900 6251